Italian artisan perfumery: exports to the US soar to 584 million

Creating a dream through fragrance: this is the idea that is sending Italian artistic perfumery soaring in the United States, as demonstrated by the success of the second edition of Esxence in New York, the leading international trade fair dedicated to artistic and niche perfumery.

At an event held on the 102nd floor of the One World Trade Center observatory, titled ‘Aura’ and organised by ICE – the Italian Trade Agency for the promotion abroad and internationalisation of Italian companies – in collaboration with the fair itself, 30 brands, from established names to emerging voices in independent perfumery, traced a true olfactory map of Italy, where Mediterranean landscapes, historic cities and regional traditions intertwined with distinctive ingredients, creativity, and technology.

“We decided to bring Aura back to the US,” said Erica Di Giovancarlo, Italian trade commissioner and executive director of the US network, “because the niche perfumery market is booming, and last year’s event was a success for both the Italian and American sides. From the Italian side, we saw a surge in applications; this year we are presenting 30 companies – around 10 more than before – and they are all small businesses with highly distinctive productions that have found favour and success here. Exports to the US in 2023 amounted to 584 million dollars, accounting for 18% of total demand.”

Overall, Italian fragrance exports reached around 3.1 billion dollars in 2023, an increase of 11% compared with the previous year. The director also points out that Italian niche fragrances have an extra edge, as they express the creativity of every Italian region.

“The craftsmanship of these small companies is always brought to the fore,” she continues, “and behind every fragrance there is a story; every product is narrated. Storytelling is hugely appreciated in the US: as well as valuing the fragrance itself, people value the story behind it – it stirs emotion, it creates a dream.”

“This year, the companies taking part are more structured than at the first edition; they are not just start-ups,” said Maurizio Cavezzali, co-founder of Esxence and CEO of Equipe Exibit. “There has been a worldwide buzz around this event and around niche perfumery. Italian production, together with French, represents the most important market in the world. It is an accessible form of luxury that does not cost thousands of dollars, and we are also working to strengthen our presence in airports worldwide. The beauty sector has even overtaken fashion, and the new generations want bespoke, made-to-measure fragrances.”

Aura opened with a talk entitled ‘From Atelier to Aisle: Taking Italian Craft to the American Consumer’, moderated by Marisa Auciello, GTM specialist at Europerfumes, with contributions from Jacqueline Flam, industry analyst at NielsenIQ, and Brandon Montgomery, perfume expert and consultant.