In Paris: Ganni, Ami, Time, and Moncler on display

Amid the fierce commercial competition between fashion brands during Paris Fashion Week, established labels must ensure they are present and secure a spot on the official schedule to shine a spotlight on their collections. We focus on Ganni, Ami, Time, and Moncler.

Ganni returns to its first loves

There is a distinctly nostalgic, childhood mood at Ganni: outsized sofas and beds, fridge magnets to play with and sugary drinks. For the Spring/Summer 2027 season, the label’s creative director, Ditte Reffstrup, looks back to the time when, as a child, she would slip on her family members’ clothes, and later, as a teenager, would raid the family wardrobes to create her own personalised looks.

After several seasons exploring theatrical constructions and historical inspirations, the designer tells FashionNetwork.com that she has gone back to the essential pieces that have defined Ganni’s silhouettes since its relaunch in 2009. Animal prints (seen notably in the current, unexpected leopard sports collaboration with Lululemon) sit alongside pastel knits, neon accessories, and floral-embroidered denims. Baby-doll dresses, generously oversized wool jumpers, deconstructed tailoring, and 1990s-style slogan T-shirts are mixed and layered. At the same time, the brand is pressing ahead with the development of its leather goods – said to account for as much as 60% of its business in a market like France – introducing new prints and formats ranging from XS to XXL, as with its Very Bou bag.

This return to basics, enhanced by a finely tuned approach to styling through layered jewellery, details, and belts, also coincides with the arrival last spring of its new managing director, Swedish executive Hans Hoegstedt. He explains that he has listened to the various stakeholders in order to draw up a new strategic plan, about which he is, for now, keeping tight-lipped. He nevertheless stresses a desire to reconnect with the brand’s fundamentals – it counts the L Catterton fund among its shareholders – and with its Copenhagen roots, as highlighted last August at an event during the Danish capital’s Fashion Week. This approach is expected to strengthen ties with the “Ganni Girls” community.

Ami welcomes the world to Place des Victoires

The Parisian label has made Place des Victoires, in the 1st arrondissement, its own territory. Around the equestrian statue of Louis XIV, the brand has established its headquarters and studios and, more recently, a press and sales showroom, together with a boutique fitted out in its latest retail concept.

It was here that Alexandre Mattiussi’s label presented its Spring/Summer 2027 offer during the most recent Paris Fashion Week, having first shown it on the runway in June. This co-ed collection reinterprets 1970s Californian codes with a more casual than chic attitude compared with its 2026 proposal, featuring colourful long-sleeved striped polo shirts, oversized tailoring, short skirts, long coats, and nubuck workwear sets. Highlights include the introduction of a new logo, the launch of a new trainer, and a particular focus on developing soft leather goods, such as its boyfriend bag.

The brand, which continues to expand its footprint in Asia, has also recently opened a café in its flagship store in the Marais.

Time, in layered form

Time, meanwhile, invited guests to the Théâtre du Châtelet. They were seated on stage, on either side of a large white podium that reflected an impressive movable illuminated ceiling bathing the entire space in light. A pared-back staging for an equally understated collection designed by Jung In Choi.

See fashion show

The show featured silhouettes that shifted between sharp tailoring and relaxed, oversized pieces. For this collection, titled ‘The First Layer’, the emphasis was on playing with layered garments.

Double-breasted suits are loose and fluid, paired with shirts featuring soft collars and, at times, teamed with large shoulder bags. Printed strappy dresses flow around the body, while straight skirts are worn with cropped jackets and structured pea coats.

See fashion show

This simplicity is echoed in the South Korean brand’s colour choices. The palette runs from black through beige to off-white, taking in charcoal grey, navy blue and pale green. Predominantly composed of solid-coloured pieces, the collection nonetheless introduces a few prints to energise several silhouettes, the result of a successful collaboration with the figurative universe of Korean painter Moka Lee.

Moncler strengthens its Paris presence

The Italian brand, a specialist in luxury down jackets, registered for the official Paris fashion calendar at the very last minute. For several seasons now, Remo Ruffini’s label has tended to favour spectacular show events in striking locations for Moncler Grenoble, its premium line devoted to high-altitude exploration and mountain lifestyles.

But the brand now seems determined to tap into the growth potential left open by the luxury giants for high-end labels. Moncler took advantage of this autumn’s Fashion Week to unveil its new exhibition and events space, located on the first floor of its Champs-Élysées boutique and spanning around 400 square metres.

In this setting, the brand presented, via an exhibition-style showcase, the Moncler Re/Icons collection: a reinterpretation of four historic models drawn from its archives and originating from different decades. The cuts of the Karakorum, Verone, Himalaya and Tibb jackets have been modernised, the materials updated and the details reworked to suit urban living. To accompany the launch, the brand has even produced a book, The Alpine Diary, which tells the story of a fictional adventurer who is said to have travelled the world and scaled mountain peaks wearing these pieces. The project also provides an opportunity for the brand to announce that, for the first time, it is producing a film about the exploits of legendary mountaineer Walter Bonatti, scheduled to be screened in Italy in 2027.

The Moncler boutique on the Champs-Élysées has been offering a preview sale of these Re/Icons pieces since October 8. The collection will be available at a pop-up at Isetan in Tokyo and at the flagship store on Fifth Avenue in New York on Wednesday, ahead of its official launch on October 15.